Day 21: Chateau Villandry

The weather forecast predicted less than pleasant weather for the following few days so we decided that while we still had the car, and the weather was good, we should go to Chateau Villandry.

On reflection it would have been a good chateau to ride to from Saumur and then get a train back.

I had not realised that Chateau Villandry was so close to Saumur and it is even closer to Tours. The chateau is famous for its gardens. Other than that I knew very little about it. It had not been on my “to-do-list” and this was probably a good thing because I went there with quite low expectations!

I had expected crowds of people there but for some reason it was rather quiet. There were two options – to see the Chateau and Garden or just the Garden. Being more interested in the Chateau we took the complete option. I am glad we did.

The history of the Chateau is that it was one of the last of the grand chateaux that were built in and around the Loire valley. It went through several changes of ownership through the centuries until a Spaniard and his American wife bought it in the early 20th century. Apparently it was really run down. Over the centuries it had been “modernised” but the owner decided to remodel it to its original design. The gardens, which it had been famous for, had changed significantly. Over a number of years, guided by pictures and drawings, the gardens were re-established to the formal French style that is seen today. The family lived there through much of the 20^th century and part of the chateau is still possibly occupied by his descendants today.

I loved the tour through the chateau. The rooms were set up as they had been when it was occupied in the early 20^th century. The husband and wife each had bedrooms the size of a small apartment. The view of the gardens from the Keep (a tower which was a remnant from the former fortress on the grounds) was very good. It is amazing to reflect on the changes in the way we now live compared to a century ago.

The gardens are stunning and extensive. It was impossible to get it all in one picture. I loved the way the vegetable garden was part of the flower garden and the shrubs. Truly amazing! We wondered what might happen to the vegetables when they reach maturity and whether they might be given away or sold, as you would think with that given such loving care, they might taste rather good.

Rain was threatening as we left the Chateau to return to Saumur. Both of us were really pleased that we visited it.

I was cooking our evening meal that night and decided to get some food from the local charcuterie and epicerie. It was a good experience as I had to use some French to ensure that I got what I wanted. As a result I had a delightful interaction with the young charcutier and then with the épicier.